My little guide to all the best bits of Osaka, a city of sensory overload. Published in The Sunday Times Travel Magazine, July 2015.

The wildest architectural head-turner in town hoves into view with an entrance like an eruption of steel piping: the National Art Museum is one of several Osaka buildings by architect César Pelli. This is his most dramatic — and divisive. He says it evokes bamboo swaying in the wind; critics say it’s more like a mangled rollercoaster. Whatever, it all but outshines the exhibits within, by the likes of Miró, Ernst and Warhol.