Food and Travel magazine

The picture above is one of the official promotional shots for Pierre Gagnaire Tokyo. They don’t sell their meals on portion size.

But the meal I ate there, courtesy of Food and Travel magazine, might just be my favourite ever.

Tarragon turns out to be a brilliant foil for gooey marshmallow, and Gagnaire reins in a pungent jellied fennel with a dessert-sweet cream of cauliflower. The menu reads like culinary whimsy (tandoori grapefruit!), but Gagnaire’s gift is to pile flavor upon flavor and texture upon texture, always staying just the right side of the genius/crackpot divide.