For Departures magazine, my suggestions for an evening out in Tokyo, featuring the sake-soaked Gem by Moto, the classy Odin, and the uptight but all-night Bar Martha.

3 a.m.: BAR MARTHA
You can’t enter if you are wearing sandals; don’t even think about taking photos; and if you speak any louder than a whisper, one of the bartenders will ask you to shush. It’s about as jolly as the Tom Waits song it’s named for. The payoff is an almost cinematic bar experience, sitting in a sepia- toned room of wood and whisky bottles as classic rock (on vinyl, naturally) wafts with impossible clarity from three-foot-tall Tannoys.